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会议：第十二届亚洲纺织会议暨2013中国纺织学术年会

时间：2013年10月24-26日

地点：上海东华大学

分会场：纺织品性能、测试与评价

报告题目：针织物手感的三激励测量：一个软材料案例研究

报告人：Ronald Postle

报告英文简介：

Soft matter including polymers, fibres and textile materials exhibit the two major features of flexibility and complex hierarchical structure which characterize soft matter. Textile systems such as knitted fabrics are formed by interfibre frictional forces and exhibit their properties from the complex and sophisticated hierarchical structure of fibre, yarn and fabric construction required to satisfy unique and particular end-use performance.

In this paper, knitted fabrics are treated as excellent examples of soft matter. The mechanisms of knitted fabric uniaxial and biaxial extension, transverse compression and bending are analysed by applying the principles of nonlinear large deformation theory using energy methods of analysis. The interplay of the major mechanisms – yarn bending, slippage, yarn compression and jamming – are considered.

Seven pairs of bi-polar tactile sensory descriptors can be extrapolated from an industrial survey of tactile sensory assessment for lightweight knitted fabrics which are often designed for next-to-skin clothing. Collinearity which was found between these descriptive attributes was removed by using principal component analysis.

Three orthogonal tactile sensory dimensions or tristimulus values are established from rapid PhabrOmeter instrumental measurements. The knitted fabrics are extracted through a nozzle under conditions of transverse compression, biaxial extension, bending and creasing as well as dynamic friction. These three orthogonal tristimulus parameters explain 92.6% of the total variance of the seven fabric tactile sensory attributes.

The first tactile sensory value or dimension is highly connected to the overall tactile preference of fabric softness and smoothness which implies that the first dimension will play a dominant role in the product purchasing decision. The other two tactile values or dimensions are related to the fabric tightness and weight respectively. The latter two dimensions can therefore be controlled objectively during fabric manufacture in terms of the yarn linear density or Tex and the length of yarn knitted in the repeat or unit cell of the fabric construction.

We conclude that further investigations of the tactile sense could lead to its improved understanding and possibly the development of psychophysical stimulus-response models along similar lines to the development of Tristimulus colorimetry for colour measurement, specification and matching.

【专题】第十二届亚洲纺织会议暨2013中国纺织学术年会

http://www.ctei.gov.cn/special/2013nzt/atc12/